FINALLY! the date is set to start the journey: 24 Jul 2023! Much later than planned but better than never, as they say!
WATCH THIS SPACE
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12 Aug 2023 - 15 January 2024 - Pejë - Tokyo - Osaka - Istanbul - Pejë #SilkRoad
Five months and two days! A journey of a lifetime through the most iconic places on Earth. Back on European soil, humbled and hopefully wiser! Culture and wealth have always originated in Asia, which was and is the cradle of human civilisation! I've only encountered kindness, compassion and hospitality - things have more or less disappeared in the self-obsessed culture in the 'west', where we are forced to be happy by possessing things we don't need! Asia is not immune of this either but everything seems gentler and less aggressive! Will we ever learn anything? I truly hope so... (China and Mongolia will need to be done as a separate trip due to visa requirements so that can complete the Silk Road - the oldest highway of ideas)
23 Jan 2024
The Oldest Highway of Ideas
A very old dream is finally happening, unless Covid has more Greek letters to go through, throwing Sigmas and Omegas around. Even with that possibility I shall not be frightened of a Sigma, Omega or even Psi, which, admittedly, looks a bit scary for a mere letter... ΣΩΨ
So, where were we... ? I resigned from a good but a repetitive and uninspiring job as a commissioner in local government; I am very proud I was part of a vital service to local communities but I now want a rucksack, maps and headphones for the next year and hopefully longer. I am no spring chicken so trying to get some real adventure in before Alzheimer's sets in, or my arm falls off or whatever else happens to old people... Sensible people would refrain from such an unwise decision but sensible I am not. Sensible people are great, I am sure of that but, as much as I envy them, I don't see them laugh much or do silly things - two things I like more than even Roquefort. Life is too short to spend it in meetings about meetings, trying to find blame rather than praise, hurdles rather than solutions...
Having had an office job most my adult life, I truly hope not to have one ever again.
The trip is meant to start in March from Pejë, my hometown in Kosovo, aiming to reach Tokyo by any means available but by road only. No flying, even over the Caspian Sea and from mainland Asia to Japan. It's the ground where I will see traces of 2000 years of human endeavours, struggles and aspirations on the roads that brought silk and sophistication to Europe. So watch this space if you have spare time...
After the trip, I have no idea... we'll see. The plan is not to have a plan. If I still feel like I feel now, I am very unlikely to return to the UK or anywhere else in the 'west'.... which has been perpetuating itself with grand delusions for four centuries as the source of all things good, which is laughable really, considering that it gave the world slavery, colonisation, exploitation, two world wars, public relations and Hollywood. Hmm. You be the judge.... there is a chance I may be running back to Hastings. Nothing is ruled out. Que sera, sera. ..
Two weeks in Kosovo, where I grew up and left when I was 25 years old in the darkest days of its history, when Slobodan Milosevic was ruling with tanks and machine guns in every road junction.
Weirdly, they still haven't left my mind! I expect to be IDed and asked silly questions about pretty much anything they liked ... for example, what was the most popular song in Serbian charts or whether my parents have bought me a wife! Total nonsense! I never met anyone whose wife had been bought and I couldn't care less about the Serbian charts! I was into grunge!
Kosovo feels freer and much richer now! The infrastructure has massively improved, which shows we were never considered worthy of the investment former Yugoslavia made in other areas with Slavic population! This is why there is absolutely zero Yugonostalgia in Kosovo as there is in Serbia, Bosnia and even Croatia!
However, Kosovans still have a lot of work to do - the first and foremost thing is confidence! Most people seem to think Kosovo will never be good despite being staunchly patriotic for obvious reasons! They prefer to buy Slovenian milk and Serbian biscuits, which is very bizarre for an area with a proven and successful tradition in agriculture! Importing is never the answer! Kosovan cows are just as good as Slovenian ones!
Environmental education and awareness needs immediate attention. Recycling is minimal and plastic seems to have become a national dish!
The sound of the Muezins needs to be lowered! Shouting is never good!
More things too... but Kosovo has the best asset - its youth! give them voice and power! They think globally not locally like the people who currently run it!
Oh and yes, capitalism is never the answer! It destroys the souls of nations.
Kosovo
SILK ROAD
After 29 years in London and 24 years of freedom from the lunatic's rule, my feelings are mixed with hope, exhilaration, joy, fear, frustration, and many more! The development of the country is obvious everywhere, you can breathe freely, the place looks vibrant and hopeful but there is still a lot of work to do, mostly in people's heads, who, for obvious reasons still think that a form of national romanticism is the main driving force and topic of conversation. This is both boring and damaging as it prevents people from looking at things tersely and objectively. My sexuality baffles, and, sometimes, disgusts them, which I find amusing in a very strange sort of way. I am convinced things will change after visas to EU are lifted as they simply need to see more to understand more. Things are progressing but not at a pace that progressive people hope... one step at a time.
Today I get my Kosovan passport! Happy!
Greece - Ελλάδα
[] And then God said: 'Let there be Greece' [] Και τότε ο Θεός είπε: «να γίνει η Ελλάδα!» []
O Thessaloniki! Greece always feels at home. They make me think Albania would have looked pretty much the same if the big boys didn't decide it would be Communist at Yalta, or whereever. Capitalism with tradition rather than glitz! We are very similar culturally. Even pigeons eat Spanakopita! Both Greeks and Albanians can be annoyingly patriotic to outsiders yet deeply cynical among themselves.. We share by far less cultural traits with Slavs, with whom we only seemed to have interacted only as much as it was necessary! I am not sure why bug there is some je-ne-sais-quoi that is different in Slavic balkaneros and Greeks and Albos (to top it all, waiting staff spoke Albanian in most places I've been so far and they played Albanian music in their version of YouTube playlists). Γειά Σασ Ελλάδα και Αλβανία. Έχουμε ξαδερφια... please let's not start an argument about whose is the #Foustanella! Hehe
Mount Athos
Undoubtedly one of the most unique experiences of my life. Ideally, I would have liked to spend more time talking to the monks but I had a feeling they weren't too keen on engaging with the people of the world... i think it is definitely a different ttpe of monasticism to the western orders, seems to require more quiet reflection rather than debating.
As an old Roman and a weird history buff, I was quite happy to talk to the walls, ceilings, domes, icons... the living quarters were almost identical to old houses we had in my hometown, Pejë!. Such a shame we decided to get rid of them in the 70s and 80s in the name of 'progress'.
I have no words that are good enough to thank the monks and fellow Albanians, who seemed to be running and repairing everything that is done by laymen.
Monasteries I visited: St Andrews, Koutlouvasiou, Iveron and the Great Lavra - 16 to go. I will be back!
Türkiye
Istanbul (Constantinople)
Constantinoupoli/Istanbul is the greatest city on earth! There is none like it. Its rich layers of history, architecture, urban institutions, music, food, style, etc are everywhere! Contrasts are striking! You'll be hearing the Muezzin faintly outside while attending a mystical Greek Orthodox liturgy... you will see a woman wearing a hijab sitting next to a woman in shorts; one minute you'll be drinking Çaj in the local cafe discussing the fate of Turkey and you'll be having a great cocktail in a lavishly decorated bar.. juxtapositions are striking! This is where East has always met West..
I will be writing more about his greatest of all cities ..
For now, it is mainly photos
Zeyrek Camii - Monastery of Christ Pantokrator (UNESCO)
Church of Christ Pantocrator built by that naughty Emperess Irene....did she pass through these doors? It's now a mosque... it looks magnificent as a mosque but I'm sure it would be just as amazing as a church. You can see that the Mihrab and the Hütbe don't match the apse, which faces East, not towards Mecca. Mossics on the floor can't be seen either as mosques are carpeted... the strange thing is that it still smelt like a church. I could almost hear the chanters changing the Troparion and Doxology while the priest goes around with the insencer to bless the icons and the people.. the magnificence of Istanbul is that it IS both Byzantine and Ottoman. Not one or the other.. #constantinoupoli #Istanbul
Yeni Camii
Blachernae Palace, Theodosian Walls & Small Aya Sophia
Mihriman Camii
Random Istanbul Capali Carsi (Grand Bazaar)
Day Seven in Istanbul The greatest city I've ever been in! Second time and being just as impressed as the first time! Less politics and religion. This city doesn't need anyone how to be - it has its own mind! Let it be!
After #TenDays
(in Istanbul)
Izmir & Efesus
Konya - the ancient capital of the Selçuks
Selcuk art and architecture was disctinctively different from that of the Ottomans, who came on the scene later and were much more influenced by the Byzantines. The Alaeddin mosque in Konya is very different from the mosques you usually see in turkey and which were modelled on Byzantine churches with a large central dome with smaller supporting semi domes supporting the main dome.
Konya is more conservative than Istanbul and Izmir so you will find it difficult to find alcohol but you won't need it as you can get drunk on all the history that it offers.
My Turkish Playlist Old Medrese & Inci Minare Mevlevi Complex
Cappadocia
Completely breathtaking. Pictures don't do it justice. It's been a dream for a long time... You can easily spend a week in Cappadocia. I didn't do the baloon thing as I couldn't justify the expense! walking and taking it all in was my preferred way to explore. Selime Monastery and the walk in the valley with hundreds of abandoned churches is a unique experience.
Samsun
Samsun is a city strongly linked with the War of Independence, as they call it in Türkye but, which, in fact, was a war of survival of Turks as a nation in Asia Minor.
What really happened was that the French and the British were very busy dismembering the Ottoman Empire, encouraging the Greeks and Armenians to rise up against their rulers of the last six centuries, resulting in a terrible civil war betweenüChristians and Muslims that had catastrophic consequences for Christians in Türkye and Muslims in Greece, which were both cleansend of their own non-wanted ones! There are sad reminders in both Türkiye and Greece these countries had been multi-faith for millenia, nuntil the civilised people from the West came to mess it all up! they started with the Second Crusade and finished it off in 1918! In some ways. WW1 is still not finished... on top of that, in both Greece and Túrkiye there is stifling nationalism that gets quite tedious after a while!
I've notriced Turkey wakes up quite late! I've got used to walking the streets early in the morning, which I think has become a new thing I like to do!
Atakum:
Trabzon
Oh What a city! I knew I'd love it! Its history is rich, which shaped the character of the city, resulting in traditions and culture that are in so many ways distinct rom the rest of Turkiye. Their music tradition is quite unique in its tonation and rhythm, which is obvious even to someone who isn't too familiar with Turkish musical traditions. It looks a bit rustier than other towns I've seen in Turkiye but I think it is catching up with new infrastructure projects all ove rthe place. I totally fell in love with Trabzon! Hayde Hayde Tu-rabzon, Tu-rabzon. Hayde Hayde Champion! :)
Georgia - საქართველო
As I expected, I totally love this country! I don't think I've ever been in a country with so much soul! The people are super nice, the food is great.. the music is from the heart not from the hips! More to come...
Batumi
Not at all what I expected!
On day 1, I thought I'd arrived in Las Vegaland - a garish place for the bad boys of Arabia and Russia to come and do things they can't do in their own countries! I later found out it is also known as the Georgian Dubai!! ffs!!! Why would GE want a Dubai?? Why would anyone want a Dubai??
Then on day TWO I went into the old town and I found Georgia I was looking for - full of soul, style and colour! Wandering streets aimlessly was great as was popping into bars and cafés..
Meeting Tia and Ben on the cable car was also very special.
Kutaisi - ქუთაისი Motsameta Monastery
What a lovely town - please read blog dated 18 Sep 2023
Tbilisi
my name in georgian script:
Tbilisi (possibly one of the loveliest places on Earth)
Kazbegi
Breathtaking views, in whichever direction you look. Stepantsminda is the main hub but the villages around are ridiculously picturesque... however, the main attraction are the impressive mountains all around you.
Most people seem to walk up to the Holy Trinity church which overlooks the valley below at 2170m altitude. The church is super cute and the views are amazing!
Oh, what a lovely city and people!
It's like old Europe before it discovered credit cards - classy, a bit grumpy, a bit rough, quietly proud, a bit worried about its fate, a bit bruised, deeply cultured and positive!
Please Tbilisi (and Georgia) don't become like us - we will murder your soul!
#lovetbilisi #lovegeorgia #silkroadtrip #brexitrefugee
Armenia
I finally got to see this amazing country, with its most unique history and culture! Their fierce resistance and the sense of strong identity and culture the survived in the middle of much stronger and bigger neighbours against all the odds is visible everywhere but in a subtle, quiet way... not with big flags everywhere like in some other countries. Armenians have suffered great pain and loss throughout history and this can somewhat be felt in the air... having said that, they are also very forward looking and keen to develop the country, which looks more capitalistic and branded than Georgia, less chaotic but also similar to Georgia in so many ways.
Yerevan is a sprawling city with grand boulevards built in a pinkish red stone that resembles the architecture of Italy in the 30s but the details are totally original, taking inspiration for the unique stone carving that is uniquely Armenian.
I felt shame that most people in the so called west would only know it because of the Kardashians - it shows our level of ignorance and general stupidity that is necessary to keep a fundamentally flawed socio-econoomic system alive! if people knew the truth, it would fall like a house of cards because of our selfish obsessions with our own forced happiness without any regard for anyone else!
Yerevan
Armenian Genocide Memorial Sevan Lake
Hayravank Monastery
Azerbaijan
Baku
Kazakhstan
I fell in love with Kazakhstan within 10 minutes, I think! Everything was so gentle, so soft, starting with the immigration officers, who were super kind and good natured. I will be visiting KZ twice - west first then east again from Kyrghisztan.
First stop was Aktau - a very Soviet looking city with an incredibly gentle atmosphere! Super clean, wide boulevards, blocks of flats built according to logic instead of profit, bars and cafes everywhere but what leaves you speechless is the coast on the Caspian Sea! It is stunning! I am not even sure if the pictures below do it any justice...
I spent two more days in Aktau than I planned because I liked it so much and I felt so much at home somehow... Like I did in Georgia but in a different kind of way. Culturally, I felt a lit bit more removed but this was never a hurdle from talking to Kazakhs, whom I grew very fond of very quickly!
I shall look forward the second episode of my visit in this endearing country.
Zarifa Alieva Ship - Caspian Sea Aktau
Aktau Beyneu
Shopan Ata (Mangistau)
Uzbekistan
Uzbekistan is the Queen of Central Asia! It is an amazing country with fascinating history and culture that is everywhere around you! I loved every moment in Uzbekistan - it felt like I was in 1223 and 2023 at the same time - it is totally enchanting. An old trollop from Deptford would, of course, say they they just need a little bit more naughtiness to complete the cycle - the people are just too nice and too well behaved although I did manage to meet a few people who weren't all that holy... one of of such persons will for ever be in my heart and memory.
Train Journey through the desert and steppe
Nukus Museum of Art
Dreamlike Khiva
Her Majesty the Desert
Enchanting Bukhara Bukhara Market and Job's Well
Enchanting Samarkand
Samarkand is the only place I've ever been where i've heard people sigh in disbelief, left totally speechless! I sighted quite a few times too. I can only think of a few other buildings that can compete: Hagia Sophia, Forbidden City in Beijing, Kufu's Pyramid, Tut's Tomb, Gold Temple in Bangkok, Taj Mahaal, Khajuraho Temples, Angkor Wat...
The city is full of unexpected marvels, that leaves a mark on your memory for ever! Humanity is lucky this city was preserved (as were Bukhara and Khiva). I think every person should go to Samarkand at least once... This was the centre of the olders highway of ideas in the world running from China to Europe. I can see why and how it all happened! The walls, the domes, the minarets, the tiles and the decorations inside the mosques, the numerous madrassas tell a story of a glorious past and a brilliant future as the East and Central Asia spring back into the place they deserve.
Amir Temur Mausoleum
Bibi Xonim Mosque
Rajiston, Amir Temur Mausoleum and the 'Russian Quarter'
UZBANIAN?
I've been carrying this traditional Albanian shirt from the Dukagjin region for almost three months, waiting for the right moment to wear it!
Well, that moment is now! With an Uzbek hat! Most normal thing, non?
(the drink is tea from Armenia, not beer from Pejë, as the glass suggests! Can't have it all)
Kyrgyzstan
I had no idea what to expect but Kyrgyzstan turned out to be an amazingly beautiful country in every possible way. I will always remember it fondly and wistfully. The people here are great and gentle, just like anywhere in Central Asia, keen to show you what their country has to offer. As everywhere else, development is at the speed of light but they Kyrgyz people seem to still be so terribly shy of their great country, unaware of the leaps it's making every day. All I can say is that the future belongs to them while the (dodgy) past belongs to us!
Bishkek
A city you will fall in love with! Apart from the grand buildings from the Soviet Era, there is style, pride, epos, and quite a bit of naughtiness here - you just need to know were to find it! I am a Bishkeker... or Bishkekian? I've no idea what a person from Bishkek is called.
I had six great days in this great quirky city in the heart of Asia that very few people know about - well, it is not Bishkek's fault they don't know about it! They need to get their arses here!
Tokmok & Burana Complex
Balykchy
Cholpon Ata
Karakol
Naryn & Tash Rabat
Tashkent
Kazakhstan (East)
So happy to be back in this great country...
Almaty
Astana
Hong Kong 香港
One of the best surprises of the trip. I simply didn't know what to expect and, perhaps, had some negative preconceptions that it would be a cesspit of soulless capitalism but how wrong I was! There is so much soul and culture in HK! I had most amazing time and luck to meet some great Hong-kongers, who showed me around and accepted me as one of the crowd. I thoroughly enjoyed HK... (despite the price of beer :)))
Japan
Life can be divided into LBJ and LAJ - life before and after Japan! You will never see the world with the same eyes again after you've experienced such a unique country and culture! The level of detail and quality, as well as people's kindness, decorum and hospitality will leave you gawping! As islands go, there is no other like Japan. It is impossible not to fall in love with Japan!
Tokyo
Kyoto
Gokuji Temple is, deservedly, one of the main Temples in Tokyo. It is very crowded and touristy but this being Japan, even hordes of tourists don't seem to be as annoying as they'd normally be.
Osaka
Istanbul - round two (on the way back)
13 - 15 Jan 2024
@bexdeptford the return ;)))
♬ original sound - Trollop of Deptford
Back in Pejë
Albania
Tirana
Vlorë & Orikum
Elbasan
Krujë
Elbasan
Rugova
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